The Healthy Kitchen by Andrew Weil, M.D., & Rosie Daley, 334 pages. Alfred A. Knopf Publishing, $16.95

The biggest nutritional problem in America isn't fat, carbohydrates, or meat, Dr. Andrew Weil states in the new edition of his bestselling cookbook The Healthy Kitchen. "What is undermining our health," the well-known natural healing expert explains, "is processed foods. They are the main source of bad fats and bad carbohydrates, along with additives we don't need, and they displace from our diets the fruits, vegetables, and whole grains we do need for the protective elements they contain."

Dr. Weil, clinical professor of medicine at the University of Arizona, and his cowriter, Rosie Daley, have dedicated their cookbook to the proposition that home kitchens are the best source of great food and optimum nutrition, as well as the first-line defense against fast food and processed foods.

"Even health-food restaurants have not yet grasped that eating wonderful food and eating healthy food can be one and the same," Dr. Weil says.

Equally palatable as the many nutritious recipes presented in the book are Dr. Weil's incisive commentaries that cut through the fat of the contradictory nutrition information we too often receive. Is it all right to eat eggs? Should we use butter or margarine? Is it better to cut back on fats or carbohydrates to lose weight?

>From the book, here are some of Dr. Weil's recommendations:

Dieting--"Any kind of diet can help you lose weight; the trick is to keep the weight off through healthful eating and exercise."

Low-Carbohydrate Diets--"For initiating weight loss, more people find a low-carbohydrate regimen easier than a low-fat regimen. The Atkins diet, however has too much meat and is deficient in fruits and vegetables and should be followed only as a short term strategy. Long-term, the diet can easily overload the kidneys and also undermine body defenses against cancer and other chronic diseases."

Eggs--"Egg yolks are highly nutritious and egg whites are high in protein. New designer eggs, high in omega-3 oils, may actually help improve cardiovascular health. Still, you should limit your consumption to no more than two eggs a day."

Pasta--"Research on carbohydrates shows pasta has a significantly lower glycemic index than bread and so has less impact on blood sugar. Pasta cooked al dente, or chewy as Italians like it, has an even lower glycemic index."

Dietary Supplements--"I take a multivitamin and multimineral supplement every day because I want to be sure I'm getting enough folic acid and vitamin E."

The following recipes are from The Healthy Kitchen:

Warm Chicken and Asparagus Salad

(Makes 6 servings)

12 baby red potatoes, cut in half
6 boneless, skinless half chicken
  breasts
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground
  black pepper
1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste
1/4 cup white wine
1 tablespoon minced fresh basil
1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley
1 bunch fresh asparagus
2 cups mixed greens

LEMON DILL VINAIGRETTE

1 large shallot, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed
  lemon juice
3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
3 tablespoons rice vinegar
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons white wine
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill weed
1/4 teaspoon salt or to taste

GARNISH

6 radishes, cut into rosettes

Preheat oven to 325[degrees]F.

Steam the potatoes by putting them in a large pot filled with about 2 inches of boiling water. Cover the pot and steam the potatoes until tender, approximately 30 minutes. Drain and transfer the potatoes to a large bowl.

Put the chicken into a baking dish, season with salt and pepper, and add the wine, basil, and parsley. Bake for 30 minutes. Make 2 diagonal slices across each chicken breast, creating 3 pieces of chicken per breast.

Meanwhile, cut 2 inches off the bottom of each asparagus stalk and blanch stalks in a pot of boiling water, just until they are tender, about 2 minutes. Lay the asparagus on a platter and let them cool at room temperature. When they are cool, cut lengthwise down the center of each stalk.

Whisk together thoroughly all the dressing ingredients in a large bowl.

Arrange some mixed greens (about 1/4 cup) on each of 6 plates and lay 6 or 7 of the cut asparagus stalks on top of the lettuce, spaced apart, with the tips pointing outward, creating a "fan." Lay 3 pieces of chicken between the "fanned" asparagus stalks.

Pour half of the dressing over the potatoes and mix gently with a spoon so they are Completely coated with the dressing. Place 4 potatoes in the center of each asparagus arrangement and drizzle 1 tablespoon of the remaining dressing over the top. Garnish each plate with a radish rosette.

Brown Rice Soup with Asparagus

(Makes 8 servings)

3/4 cup brown rice
1/4 cup wild rice
2 teaspoons salt or to taste
1 bunch asparagus
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 celery stalks, chopped fine
(about 2/3 cup)
onion, chopped fine (about 1/3 cup)
1 small carrot, chopped fine
(about 1/3 cup)
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
6 cups vegetable stock
2 tablespoons minced scallions or
  green onions
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon natural soy sauce
  (such as tamari)
1/2 teaspoon hot pepper sauce
Freshly ground black pepper (to taste)

Put the rice with the salt in 3 cups of water in a medium saucepan. Bring it to a boil, reduce the heat, cover, and simmer until the rice is tender and the water is absorbed, about 45 minutes.

Trim the tough ends off the asparagus stalks and discard. Steam the asparagus until tender yet crisp, about 2 minutes. Drain it in a colander, then rinse under cold water. Let the asparagus cool for a few minutes. When completely cooled, cut into 1 inch pieces, reserving 1/4 cup of tips for garnish.

Coat the bottom of a large pot with the olive oil. Add the celery, onion, carrot, and thyme. Cover and cook over low heat for 4 minutes, stirring occasionally, until tender. Add the vegetable stock and cooked rice and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool a bit.

Carefully transfer small batches to a blender and blend until smooth. Return all the blended mixture to a pot. Stir in the asparagus, scallions, parsley, soy sauce, pepper sauce, and ground pepper. Return to a simmer for 2 minutes. Ladle into bowls and garnish with asparagus tips and parsley sprigs.

Baked Curried Sea Bass with Lentils

(Makes 8 servings)

CURRIED LENTILS WITH VEGETABLES

3 1/4 cups purified water
1 bay leaf
1 cup lentils
1 tablespoon Cajun seasoning
1 cup sliced onion
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 cup sliced shiitake or button mushrooms
1/2 cup broccoli florets
1/2 cup yellow or red bell pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
2/3 cup nutritional yeast
1 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon curry powder
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1/4 cup purified water

SEA BASS SAUTE

1/2 cup almond meal (or 1/2 cup
  blanched, ground almonds)
1 teaspoon salt
Pinch cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon curry powder
Four 6-ounce sea bass Steaks,
cut in half
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed
  lemon juice (from 1 lemon)

Bring 3 cups of water to a boil in a large saucepan. Add the bay leaf and the lentils and cook for 40-45 minutes. Remove from heat when completely cooked and let cool briefly. Drain off any liquid and stir in the Cajun seasoning.

Saute the onions, garlic, mushrooms, broccoli, and bell peppers in the olive off until the onions are transparent and limp, about 4 minutes. Add the yeast, salt, and curry powder and stir until everything is blended in. Add to the cooked lentils. Dissolve the cornstarch in the water and stir it into the lentils and vegetables. Continue to cook for 3 minutes, until the mixture thickens. Remove from the heat.

Preheat oven to 400[degrees]F.

Mix the almond meal, salt, cayenne pepper, and curry powder on a plate and flip both sides of the fish steaks on it until they are coated with the mixture. Heat the olive oil in a large saute pan and lay the fish in. Saute over medium heat, turning once, for 5 minutes on each side. Drizzle the lemon juice over the fish. If you aren't using an ovenproof Dutch oven or pan, transfer the fish to a baking dish. Put the lentil and vegetable mixture around the fish, cover with foil, and bake for 10 minutes to cook the steaks through; when you cut into one, the flesh should be a pale white color, not translucent.

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