For Agustin Gaytan, Day of the Dead--Dia de los Muertos--is a celebration of life. In his childhood home in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, on November 1 and 2, paths of marigold petals lead the way to altars adorned with photographs and aglow with candles. Families trek to the cemetery to remember dead loved ones. Then they bring out the good food.

In San Francisco's Mission District, the holiday echoes that spirit of reflective joy. "Day of the Dead here resembles Halloween with Mexican flavor," says Gaytan. People don costumes (skeletons are popular) and feast on favorite foods.

We asked Gaytan--a chef, instructor, culinary tour leader, and researcher--to create a meal that's equally appropriate to a spiritual ritual or a Mexican fiesta. His spicy deviled shrimp and smoky pork tostadas will heat up the holiday for all.

INFO: Learn more about Gaytan's classes and tours on his website (www.agustincooks.com).

Deviled Shrimp

(Camarones a la Diabla)

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 25 minutes

MAKES: About 12 appetizer servings

NOTES: Gaytan leaves the shells on the shrimp to keep them juicy. Devein them in the shell (see "Tip from the Test Kitchen," page 136) or buy frozen deveined, unshelled shrimp and thaw. Or for easier eating, use shelled, deveined shrimp. You can grill the shrimp up to 4 hours ahead; cover and chill.

1 1/2 pounds shrimp (31 to 40 per lb.; see notes), deveined with shells
      on, rinsed, and drained
    1 cup chipotle salsa (recipe follows)
      Lime wedges

1. Thread shrimp equally on 10 to 12 skewers (if using wooden ones, soak in water 30 minutes first). Reserve 1/2 cup salsa for serving; coat shrimp with remaining 1/2 cup.

2. Set shrimp on a barbecue grill over hot coals or high heat on a gas grill (you can hold your hand at grill level only 2 to 3 seconds); close lid on gas grill. Cook, turning once, just until shrimp are barely opaque but still moist-looking in center of thickest part (cut to test), 4 to 6 minutes total. Serve with reserved 1/2 cup salsa and lime wedges.

Per serving: 70 cal., 26% (18 cal.) from fat; 9.9 g protein; 2 g fat (0.3 g sat.); 3.2 g carbo (0.8 g fiber); 72 mg sodium; 70 mg chol.

Chipotle Salsa

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 hour

MAKES: About 4 cups

NOTES: This salsa is medium-hot. Use more chiles if you prefer hot, fewer for mild. If dried chipotles aren't available, use canned chipotle chiles, stemmed and seeded. You can make salsa up to 1 day ahead; cover and chill. Use for the shrimp and the pork tinga.

  4 firm-ripe tomatoes (8 oz. each), rinsed
  2 unpeeled white onions (6 oz. each), cut in half horizontally
 20 unpeeled garlic cloves
 15 dried chipotle chiles (3 oz. total) or 10 canned chipotles (see
    notes)
  3 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup lime juice
    Salt

1. Cover bottom of a 10- to 12-inch grill pan or heavy frying pan with foil and set over high heat. When hot, set tomatoes, onions, and garlic on foil. Turn occasionally until browned in spots all over, 5 to 6 minutes for garlic, 9 to 12 minutes for onions and tomatoes; remove each as done. Add dried chiles (omit this step if using canned chiles) to pan and turn often just until slightly softened and darkened in spots, 1 to 2 minutes. Let cool.

2. Stem chiles; slit open and remove seeds. Wearing rubber gloves, break or cut chiles into small pieces; drop into a blender. Core tomatoes and cut into chunks; add to blender. Peel onions and garlic; coarsely chop and add to blender. Whirl mixture until smooth, pushing it down into blades as needed.

3. Pour olive oil into a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium-high heat; when hot, add tomato mixture and stir often until it simmers rapidly, 3 to 4 minutes. Add lime juice and stir occasionally until salsa is fairly thick, 10 to 15 minutes longer. Add salt to taste.

Per 1/4 cup: 62 cal., 52% (32 cal.) from fat; 1.5 g protein; 3.5 g fat (0.5 g sat.); 8.3 g carbo (2.2 g fiber); 9.7 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Jicama, Cucumber, and Pineapple Salad

(Pico de Gallo)

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 20 minutes

MAKES: About 12 servings

NOTES: You can prepare step 1 up to 2 hours ahead. Cover and chill vegetable platter.

1. Cut 1 pound peeled jicama, 1 rinsed cucumber (12 oz.), and 1 pound peeled and cored fresh pineapple into sticks or slices about 2 inches long and 1/2 inch thick. Arrange on a platter. Squeeze 1 lime over vegetables and fruit.

2. In a small bowl, mix 1/2 teaspoon each cayenne, paprika (or ground dried ancho chile), and salt. Sprinkle half the mixture over vegetables and fruit. Offer lime wedges and remaining chile salt to add to taste.

Per serving: 39 cal., 7% (2.7 cal.) from fat; 0.6 g protein; 0.3 g fat (0 g sat.); 9.6 g carbo (2.4 g fiber); 99 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Tostadas with Shredded Pork

(Tostadas de Tinga)

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 45 minutes

MAKES: 10 to 12 servings

NOTES: You can fry the tortillas (step 1) up to 2 hours ahead; store airtight. Or use purchased fried corn tortillas (tostadas) from a Mexican market. Use a mild, moist, slightly salty cheese such as Mexican queso fresco or farmer's cheese, or ricotta salata, from a supermarket.

    Vegetable oil for frying
  2 dozen corn tortillas (5 to 6 in. wide; see notes)
  2 quarts finely shredded cabbage (1 1/4 lb.)
1/2 cup thinly sliced radishes
1/3 cup lime juice
    Salt and pepper
  6 cups hot refried black or pinto beans (purchased or homemade)
    Shredded pork (recipe follows)
    About 1 1/2 cups chipotle salsa (recipe precedes)
    About 1 1/2 cups sour cream, Mexican crema, or creme fraiche
  8 ounces queso fresco or farmer's cheese, crumbled (see notes)
  2 avocados (8 oz. each), peeled, pitted, and thinly sliced, or 2 to 3
    cups guacamole

1. Pour 1/2 inch oil into an 8- to 10-inch frying pan over medium-high heat. When the edge of a tortilla bubbles vigorously when dipped in the oil, slip tortilla into pan. Cook tortilla, pushing down into oil occasionally and turning over once, until lightly browned, about 1 minute total. Lift out with tongs and transfer to paper towel-lined baking sheets to drain. Repeat to cook remaining tortillas; set in a single layer. As they cool, stack.

2. In a bowl, mix cabbage, radishes, and lime juice. Add salt and pepper to taste.

3. Spoon cabbage mixture, refried beans, shredded pork, chipotle salsa, sour cream, cheese, and avocados into separate bowls. Serve with crisp-fried tortillas for guests to assemble their own tostadas: Spread beans on a tortilla, then add pork, cabbage, salsa, sour cream, cheese, and avocado to taste.

Per serving: 527 cal., 56% (297 cal.) from fat; 27 g protein; 33 g fat (11 g sat.); 33 g carbo (3.5 g fiber); 886 mg sodium; 76 mg chol.

Shredded Pork

(Tinga)

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 2 hours

MAKES: About 8 cups; enough for 2 dozen tostadas

NOTES: For best results, buy a partially dried chorizo (longaniza) in a natural casing from a Mexican market. Otherwise, use the ground-pork option. You can prepare this savory meat mixture through step 2 up to 1 day ahead; cover and chill. Leftovers may also be used for sandwiches or soft tacos.

    3 pounds fat-trimmed boned pork shoulder (butt), rinsed and cut into
      2-inch cubes
    1 white onion (8 oz.), peeled and sliced
    9 cloves garlic, peeled
   15 sprigs (8 in. each) fresh cilantro, rinsed
    6 sprigs (6 in. each) fresh mint, rinsed
    3 dried bay leaves About 1 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 pounds chorizo sausage (or 1 1/2 pounds ground pork and 2
      tablespoons chili powder; see notes)
1 1/2 cups chipotle salsa (recipe precedes)
1 1/2 tablespoons cider vinegar
  3/4 teaspoon dried oregano, crumbled

1. In a 5- to 6-quart pan, combine pork, onion, garlic, cilantro, mint, bay leaves, 1 teaspoon salt, and 6 cups water. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat and simmer until pork is tender when pierced, 1 to 1 1/4 hours. With a slotted spoon, lift meat from broth, leaving behind other solids. Reserve broth for another use. When meat is cool enough to handle, tear into coarse shreds.

2. Set 5- to 6-quart pan or a 12-inch frying pan over medium-high heat. Squeeze sausage from casing into pan; stir often until meat is browned, 6 to 10 minutes. (If using ground pork, crumble pork into pan and add chili powder.) If there's more than 1 tablespoon fat, drain off and discard extra. Stir in shredded pork, chipotle salsa, vinegar, and oregano.

3. Stir often over low heat until tinga is hot and juices are slightly thickened and no longer runny, 4 to 6 minutes. Add more salt to taste.

Per 1/3 cup: 238 cal., 61% (144 cal.) from fat; 18 g protein; 16 g fat (5.8 g sat.); 3.9 g carbo (0.7 g fiber); 494 mg sodium; 63 mg chol.

Pasilla Chile Chocolate Cake

(Pastel de Chocolate y Chile Pasilla)

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 hour, plus 5 hours to cool and chill

MAKES: About 12 servings