Spicy-tangy pairing in fruit salsas puts extra zing into summer

By SHANNON FROMMA Albany Times Union

Sunday, June 20, 2004

Bring salsa alive this summer by using fruit instead of the usual salsa suspects.

"Fruit goes well with so many things," especially grilled foods -- fish, pork and chicken," says Michael St. John, executive chef at the Desmond hotel inAlbany, N.Y. "We are using a ton of them. I think everyone is."

Summertime salsas are simple to prepare. A little peeling, chopping and stirring is about all it takes to create this healthful condiment.

Like most salsas, summer-fresh fruit salsas are a study in contrasts.

Don't hesitate to pair a spicy pepper with a tangy pineapple. Smooth, sweet fruits paired with crisp, piquant vegetables offer varied textures and tastes. Add a splash of wine, vinegar or citrus juice for an acidic base to complement the sweetness of the fruits and the spiciness of vegetables and herbs.

Try to strike a balance, says John Reilly, associate professor at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y.

"You have all these flavors working together, giving you that multidimensional flavor," he says. "The flavors will actually come out more because they are competing with one another."

Not all fruits lend themselves well to a salsa. Reilly avoids using fruits that are too sweet, like peaches and berries. He also suggests staying away from moist fruits such as watermelon, because they break down more easily.

Mangoes, papayas, pineapples and jicama work well, but don't go crazy when slicing them up. Cutting the fruit into eye-catching cubes is key to an appealing salsa. Avoid using a food processor.

"If you cut them by hand, it's a little more gentle on the fruit," says Reilly. "It won't bruise and break down so easily."

Rinsing onions or jalapeno peppers will help tone down their pungency a bit, he says.

Fresh herbs complete a fruit salsa, Reilly says. Cilantro, mint, marjoram and oregano work best. These herbs are strong, but not too harsh.

Don't mix in the herbs until you're ready to serve the salsa. This will help them retain their natural flavor.

Reilly also adds that it's not necessary to wait until the last minute to prepare a salsa.

"Make it in the morning, chill it and it's good to go for a day, maybe two," he says.

If you're not up for peeling and slicing slippery mangoes or papayas, there are a few fruit salsas available on grocery store shelves. Paul Newman has created two Newman's Own varieties -- pineapple and peach. Each offers a subtle hint of sweetness, perfect for dipping and marinades.

Plenty of other fruit salsas are available on the Web.

But nothing beats ripe, juicy pineapple or mango, says St. John.

"There's just something about using fresh ingredients," he says.

"Prepared simply, it's the taste of life."

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Strawberries, dates and pistachios are combined in this recipe from the California Strawberry Commission.

Moroccan Strawberry Salsa

1/4 cup freshly squeezed orange juice 2 teaspoons honey 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom 1/4 teaspoon salt 2 cups coarsely chopped stemmed strawberries 1/2 cup chopped pitted dates 1/4 cup chopped pistachio nuts 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

In a large bowl, whisk orange juice, honey, ginger, cinnamon, cardamom and salt. Add strawberries, dates, pistachio nuts and mint. Stir gently with a rubber spatula or wooden spoon.

Refrigerate, covered, up to 8 hours. Serve with roast chicken, grilled salmon, baked goat cheese or over poundcake. Makes 2 1/2 cups.

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Tropical salsa adorns chicken breasts in this recipe from "Weber's Art of the Grill: Recipes for Outdoor Living" (Chronicle Books, 1999, $35).

Lemongrass and Curry Chicken Breasts with Fresh Tropical Salsa

3/4 cup finely diced ripe mango 1/2 cup finely diced ripe papaya 1/ 2 cup finely diced red bell pepper 1/2 cup finely diced seedless cucumber 1/2 cup finely diced red onion 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint 1 to 2 teaspoons minced jalapeno pepper, seeded 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 2 stalks lemongrass 1 (1- inch) piece ginger root, peeled and thinly sliced 1 tablespoon hot chile sauce 1 tablespoon curry powder 2 tablespoons peanut oil 1 tablespoon soy sauce Juice of 1 lime 1/4 cup water 4 (4- to 5-ounce) boneless chicken breast halves, skin on

To make salsa, combine mango, papaya, bell pepper, cucumber, red onion, mint, jalapeno, lime juice and salt. Cover and refrigerate at least 30 minutes or as long as 8 hours. Bring to room temperature before serving.

Meanwhile, cut lemongrass into 1/8-inch-thick slices. In a food processor or blender, combine the lemongrass, ginger, chile sauce, curry powder and peanut oil. Puree until smooth.

In a medium saucepan, over medium-high heat, cook mixture until aroma is apparent, 5 minutes. Mix in soy sauce, lime juice and water.

Allow to cool to room temperature.

Put chicken breasts in a large bowl. Cover with cooled pureed mixture. Toss to coat thoroughly. Cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour.

Lightly brush the cooking grate with peanut oil. Place the chicken breasts, skin side down, over indirect medium heat. Grill until done; serve warm with tropical fruit salsa. Makes 4 servings.

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This fish recipe is from "Fish & Shellfish, Grilled & Smoked" by Karen Adler and Judith M. Fertig (The Harvard Common Press, 2002, $15.95).

Swordfish Steaks with Pineapple Salsa

1 fresh, ripe pineapple, cored, peeled and quartered 1/2 cup seeded and diced red bell pepper 1/2 cup seeded and diced green bell pepper 1/4 cup finely chopped red onion 5 tablespoons olive oil (divided) 2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice 1 tablespoon snipped fresh chives 1 tablespoon finely chopped Italian parsley 2 teaspoons seeded and minced serrano chile 1/ 2 teaspoon sea salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 6 (7- to 8-ounce) swordfish steaks 3 lemons, quartered Sea salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste

Preheat broiler.

Arrange pineapple on a baking sheet and place under broiler until pineapple begins to brown, 5 minutes per side. Cut pineapple into 1/ 4-inch cubes and place in a large glass bowl.

Add bell peppers, onion, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, cilantro, lime juice, chives, parsley, serrano chile, salt and pepper. Toss to blend. Cover and refrigerate 2 hours.

When ready to grill fish, prepare a hot grill.

Lay the swordfish steaks in a glass casserole and squeeze 1 lemon wedge over each. Lightly season each steak with salt and white pepper to taste, then drizzle with remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil.

Grill swordfish until opaque, 4 minutes per side. Do not overcook; swordfish dries out quickly.

To serve, place each steak on a bed of the salsa and garnish with remaining lemon wedges. Makes 6 servings.

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